The second the warm weather starts, my thoughts turn to wine, specifically white wine. All it takes is an afternoon sunning myself in the garden and I start to think about a cold glass of young, slightly “spritzig” German Riesling or grapey Prosecco before dinner. So all this gorgeous sunshine we’ve had recently has got me thinking about my ultimate summer wines.
Warm weather and full-bodied wines don’t go together in my mind. Subsequently, like most people I imagine, my consumption of reds goes right down if the sun is out. Summer is the time for white wine in all its glorious variety. More specifically light, fragrant and refreshing whites with aromas of grass, peaches and citrus, although not necessarily all at once! Nothing overly alcoholic or oaky, no buttery chardonnays or lychee gewurztraminers, I want my summer whites crisp, zesty and occasionally mineral. These are my Top 10 whites for summer drinking:
Prosecco – grapey, light, refreshing and not too fizzy, Prosecco beats all comers for the title of best sparkling summer aperitif. Best of all, it’s not going to break the bank, although it is worth going for the £8 mark rather than the cheapest on the supermarket shelf. My favourite is Prosecco Treviso Frizzante from Riva dei Frati.
German Riesling Kabinett – German wines are ridiculously underrated in the UK, it must be all those years of Blue Nun, Black Tower and Leibfraumilch. But young dry Riesling from the Mosel’s great winemakers is an absolute delight and I can’t think of a wine I would rather drink on a hot evening. Von Kesselstadt, Joseph Schmitt, Willi Haag, Von Hovel, JJ Prum (on a special occasion!) and Egon Muller are the names to look out for. Of course Riesling ages beautifully too but I think that it needs to be young and peachy for those summer evenings in the garden. This could be because I never give it the chance to age though!
Alsace Muscat – I am a huge fan of Alsace wines and it is hard to pick just one but I think the fragrance of Muscat really seems to suit summer drinking. My favourite version is the subtly fragrant, bone dry Muscat Reserve from Trimbach.
Gruner Veltliner – or Groovy (GruV) as it is known in the wine trade! Austrian wines have had a lot of bad press in the past but winemakers have put this behind them and are on excellent form, particularly with this variety. It’s zesty and light and very moreish. Good examples from Weingut Stadt Krems and The Wine Society’s Exhibition Range.
Menetou-Salon – Not nearly as famous as its neighbours, Sancerre and Pouilly Fume but if you find a good producer then you’re likely to get much better value for money with a Menetou-Salon. Grassy Loire sauvignon with the mineral edge typical of the region’s finest wines. Henri Pelle is the producer I’ve stuck with ever since I first tasted his wine.
Marlborough Sauvignon, New Zealand – This has become ubiquitous at summer parties with nearly everyone pitching up with a lukewarm bottle of Oyster Bay. Stray a little from the supermarket staples though and you remember why we love this wine. For ages Wither Hills was my favourite and it’s still good but a better bet is The Ned, a gorgeous wine which seldom disappoints. Cloudy Bay is well-made but, in my opinion, not worth the money.
Albarino – I was never much of a fan of Spanish whites until I tasted Albarino. This crisp, clean-tasting Galician grape is perfect with delicate seafood dishes like lemon sole. Rias Baixas makes several cuvees at various price points. All are outstanding value for money.
Vinho Verde – This Portuguese white is light and bright with zesty citrus notes and often has a slight spritz to it. Summer in a glass.
Chablis – Seafood and Chablis, one of the great food and wine pairings. I like my Chablis steely, mineral and austere, the riper, peachy styles don’t do it for me. Domaine William Fevre and Julien Brocard are names to look out for. Be warned though, whilst Chablis can be one of the great delights of the wine world, it can also be one of the biggest disappointments. It is worth spending more and buying from a good merchant.
Moscato d’Asti – Specifically Elio Perrone’s Moscato. Relatively low alcohol, sweet, effervescent, absolutely delicious. The perfect way to round off a long lunch with friends in the garden. It goes remarkably well with Eton Mess, Strawberry shortcake or a light, fluffy Victoria Sponge with fresh berries.
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